A Quick Guide to German Watchmaking with 5 Top Watches

Generally, when you think of high-end watchmaking, you think of Switzerland. And after Switzerland, our minds inevitably wander to Japan. But beyond these two, there is another country with deep, historical ties to horology, that should not be forgotten. German watchmaking has a storied history, that exists before, during, and after the area’s tumultuous past.

Brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Glashutte Original, Sinn, and even Junghans, date back to the mid-1800s. And today, they are all producing watches with a distinctly German flair. With a distinctive design language, let’s take a look at five of our favorite watches from German watch brands.

A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Ref. 425.050

A. Lange & Söhne dates all the way back to 1845, having been founded by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, a contemporary of the likes of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Founded in Dresden, manufacturing would eventually move to Glashütte. Even after his death, the brand continued. But it wasn’t until Walter Lange (Ferdinand Lange’s great-grandson) came along in the 1990s that Lange became what it is today.

When we think of A. Lange & Söhne watches, we think of the chronograph. And while the Datograph is the most famous of Lange’s chronographs, the1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Ref. 425.050. Honeygold is one of our absolute favorites. It is made of a proprietary alloy that is incredibly durable. The distinct honeygold color, is a play on rose gold, but has just a bit of a warmer, orange hue. If you are looking for a Lange and want one of their renowned chronographs, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold 425.050 is a great option. 

A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Lumen Phantom Ref. 140.035

Since Lange is the German brand by which all are measured, it made sense to include a second watch from the brand on this list. The Zeitwerk Lumen Phantom Ref. 140.035 adds to the highly coveted “Lumen” treatment to the iconic Zeitwerk. Instead of a traditional dial, the Zeitwerk Lumen has has a transparent sapphire dial where you can see the large time display rotating into position in the time apertures. And they are all lumed, creating a real visual treat when in the dark. If you are looking for something different from the German stalwart brand, the Zeitwerk Lumen Phantom Ref. 140.035 is the watch.

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

Like Lange, Glashütte Original was founded all the way back in 1845, giving the brand a significant legacy in watchmaking. Today, it is part of the much larger (and Swiss) Swatch Group. But even with it’s Swiss parent, in Glashütte, Germany. The brand offers high-end timepieces, with a similar German aesthetic to the Lange, but at a somewhat more affordable price-point. One of our favorite pieces is the PanoMaticLunar which, in typical German style, features offset time and seconds subdials, and a big date. Plus, Glashütte Original is sometimes a little more playful than Lange in their dial colors. The green gradient dial on this PanoMaticLunar is just one example.

Moritz Grossmann Backpage Ref. MG-001642

German watchmaking kicked off in 1845 when Ferdinand Adolph Lange, Julius Assmann, Adolf Schneider, and yes, Moritz Grossman, moved to Glashütte to manufacture watch parts and pocket watches. Moritz Grossman the watch brand, was founded much later, in 2008, as a luxury independent producer of watches (producing around 200 watches a year). Our favorite from the brand has to be the Backpage Ref. MG-001642. This watch features a partially openworked dial, with a mixture of traditional and modern finishings, as well as a beautiful blue dial. Moritz Grossman is known for their movements, so being able to view them dial-side is always a winner in our book.

Lang & Heyne Georg

Not to be confused with A. Lange & Sohne, Lang & Heyne, the Dresden based brand, was founded by friends Marco Lang and Mirko Heyne, hoping to take traditional German design and modernizing it. The Dresden is a beautiful amalgamation of modern and vintage. The rectangular case is faceted in the four corners and the circular crown guard adds some softness to an otherwise angular watch. And overall, the Georg is just a stunning interpretation of the quintessential German design language, for the collector looking for something off the beaten path.