Overlooked is your weekly horological treasure hunt — where we dig through the vaults of European Watch Company to spotlight a few quietly brilliant pieces hiding in plain sight. It’s the sleeper hit, the underdog, the “wait, how is this still available?” watch you didn’t know you needed… until now.

When one thinks of a chronograph, one might think of a classic configuration, like the Omega Speedmaster. But just as not all heroes wear capes, not all chronographs are the same, and these four examples exemplify the wide range of available styles, metals, and general vibes in the chronograph category.

The Icon: Rolex 126503 Daytona SS / 18K YG 

Originally launched in 1963, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has become a modern icon in the chronograph category. Born from the partnership between Rolex and the legendary auto racing destination, the Daytona International Speedway, it was designed for motor racing professionals and has become a modern classic, worn by legends like Paul Newman. This version has a 40mm steel case and a white dial with gold-ringed subdials that’s framed by an 18K yellow gold tachymeter bezel, ideal for timing races. It’s powered by Rolex’s in-house automatic caliber 4131, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and the brand’s patented Chronergy escapement. It comes on a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet, and is in unworn condition with box and papers, making it a true treasure.

The Diver: Blancpain 5085F Fifty Fathoms Flyback Chronograph 18K Rose Gold 

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms is a legend in the dive watch category. Launched in 1953 as a tool watch for military divers, it cemented its legacy as a modern dive watch, and has had many subsequent iterations. This model is powered by Blancpain’s in-house automatic caliber F185, which incorporates a flyback chronograph function, which allows the wearer to rapidly reset the chronograph function for extreme precision. The 45mm 18K Rose Gold case frames a black unidirectional bezel and black dial, which are punctuated with luminous markers and hands for maximum legibility. It’s also water-resistant up to 300 meters, making it beautiful and functional for many applications. 

The Legend: Audemars Piguet 26568IM Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph "Michael Schumacher" Titanium 

The Royal Oak is one of the most recognizable designs in the Audemars Piguet catalog, and is one of the most iconic designs by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta. The Offshore collections are where AP can really go a little avant-garde with their designs, and this version, a tribute to motorsport legend Michael Schumacher, is a great example of a slightly funkier design form meeting with technical function. The 44mm titanium case is complemented by a ceramic bezel and anthracite dial, bringing several shades of grey into play. The subdials here are decidedly racing-inspired, with red accents punctuating the blacks and grays on the dial. It’s sporty, cool, and a little futuristic, a great combination for a day on the racetrack or a night on the town.

The Innovator: IWC Big Ingenieur Chronograph Platinum 

IWC’s Ingenieur has been having a big moment in the last year, with the release of updated versions and ties to the F1 movie. But the Ingenieur, also a Gérald Genta design, has been a core collection within IWC’s repertoire for many years, representing the luxury sports watch category with style. This model has a bold design and big wrist presence at 45.5mm in case diameter, and its platinum case lends some heft. Its uniqueness lies in the chronograph totalizer at the 12 o’clock position, displaying the elapsed hours and minutes on a single counter, which is usually displayed on two separate subdials in a classic chronograph configuration. This single counter is one of the main features of the in-house automatic calibre 89360, which also features an innovative double-pawl winding system. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, a nice treat for the wearer. 

Whether you’re using your chronograph to time an auto race or a perfectly cooked egg, there’s a style and a design for everyone. Classic, bold, luxurious, sporty - the chronograph can come in many shapes and sizes.