Pre-Owned Watch Market in 2025: Smart Buys and What to Avoid

There has never been a better time to buy a pre-owned watch, but there has never been a riskier one either.

In 2025, the secondary market is thriving. Dealer networks, resale platforms, and private sellers are packed with everything from steel sports models to artisanal independents. But with all that choice comes confusion. Prices are still correcting from the post-pandemic hype era, new watches are arriving faster than ever, and many collectors are struggling to tell the difference between a smart buy and a ticking time bomb.

So how do you navigate it all? We spoke to a professional sales specialist and a seasoned collector to break down what’s hot, what’s fair, and what to avoid.

The Market Has Cooled but Not Collapsed

If 2022 was the year of overpaying for a Daytona and 2023 was the hangover, then 2024 and 2025 mark a return to rationality. Hyped pieces are still expensive, but prices have softened and buyers are more selective. Real value is starting to matter again.

Justin MacDowell, a Watch Specialist at European Watch Company, said he didn’t see one brand or style dominating. “We are seeing nice, complete watches in good condition and with good provenance selling best,” he said. “It’s a buyer’s market with lots of available inventory and reasonable prices, so collectors are really looking for the best possible examples, and those are the pieces that are selling.”

Asked about where prices might go, MacDowell was candid. “The health of the secondary watch market is closely tied to that of global equities in general, and it’s impossible to accurately predict how this will have a knock-on effect,” he said. Rather than forecast, he encouraged collectors to shift their mindset. “My advice would be to forget about looking at watches as ‘investments’ and just buy what you like.”

Don’t Chase the Deal, Chase the Watch

It’s tempting to buy something just because the price looks good. But the best pre-owned watches aren’t necessarily the cheapest. They’re the ones that have been well cared for, come with a known service history, and ideally include the box and papers. A bargain that needs a $2,000 service is no bargain at all.

Equally important is the seller. Are they reputable? Are they standing behind the watch? Does the listing include clear photos, serial numbers, and a return policy? If not, walk away.

MacDowell noted that many first-time buyers purchase watches they think they should like, rather than what genuinely appeals to them. “A lot of first-time buyers haven’t quite figured out their style or really know which models, styles, or brands they really like yet,” he said. “They end up buying watches that they think they ‘should’ like. No matter where you are on your collecting journey, buy what you like, not what someone tells you that you should like.”

He also said skipping box and papers to save money can backfire. “We all tend to rotate in and out of pieces, especially when we start collecting,” he said, “and it’s much easier to sell or trade a piece down the road that is complete than it is to move one that isn’t.”

Neo-Vintage Still Offers Value

Watches from the mid-1980s through early 2000s remain undervalued relative to their build quality and significance. Many were made during transitional periods when mechanical movements were returning, cases were slimming down, and production volumes were lower than today.

Michael Stockton, a longtime contributor to Fratello Magazine and seasoned collector, pointed to complicated and dress watches from the 1980s and 1990s, especially from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. While these pieces tend to be smaller than what’s been fashionable, he said the quality is top-tier. “Buy quality and don’t worry about the trends,” he said. “At some point, watches like these will come back into fashion, and when folks are paying multiples higher for a similar new piece with less interesting finishing, you’ll have the real deal on your wrist.”

Trends Shift, but Substance Lasts

In a fast-moving market, it’s easy to get caught up in what’s trending. But often, the best long-term buys are the ones not getting much attention.

Stockton highlighted 1990s Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe as areas still under the radar. He singled out Vacheron’s smaller Les Historiques models and Patek’s Gondolo line. “All of these watches offer as much or more watchmaking prowess than a Cartier from the same period,” he said. With many of these examples still trading at modest prices, they offer strong value for collectors who care more about substance than social media status.

Slow Down and Do Your Homework

If you’re buying pre-owned in 2025, the best move is to slow down. The right watch will come around again. The wrong one might leave you stuck with expensive repairs or lasting regret.

Spend as much time researching sellers as researching the watch. Learn about movement quirks. Check auction results. Ask for more photos. And most of all, be honest about why you want the piece. When you buy smart, the pre-owned market doesn’t have to be a minefield. It can be the most rewarding part of collecting.