The Fast Lane of Timekeeping: Why every collection needs a racing chronograph

Lifestyle

Published by: Dániel Dobai

View all posts by Dániel Dobai
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Few sports are as closely linked to watchmaking as motorsport. A racing chronograph isn’t simply about telling time—it’s a symbol of speed, precision, and a ticket to the world of adrenaline-filled raceways. Whether used to time laps or worn by legendary drivers, these watches capture the essence of competition and heritage.

Ahead of this year’s Formula 1 season and the race opener in Melbourne, Australia, we spoke with Mark Hammerschmidt, a Hong Kong-based watch collector and Formula 1 enthusiast, and Iván Zomborácz, former editor-in-chief of a leading automotive magazine and now a senior editor at Forbes Hungary, to find out about the allure of racing chronographs in today’s watch culture.

The Icons

Ask any collector about the most legendary racing chronographs, and you’ll likely hear the same names. “Heuer Autavia, Heuer Monaco, Omega Speedmaster, and Rolex Daytona all stand out,” said Hammerschmidt. “Heuer played a huge role in F1 timing before Rolex took over. Certain Autavia models were even named after drivers like Jochen Rindt, while the Monaco became iconic thanks to Steve McQueen in Le Mans. The Daytona, though, is the most enduring—it’s still in production.”

In the early 1960s, Rolex introduced the Cosmograph reference 6239, designed specifically for professional racing drivers thanks to its tachymeter scale on the bezel, which allowed drivers to measure speed based on time traveled. It was later nicknamed “Daytona” after the Daytona International Speedway in Florida, where Rolex began as the official timekeeper for the racetrack in 1962. The brand went on to become the title sponsor of the Rolex 24 at Daytona in 1992, a title which they still hold to this day.

tag-heuer-monaco

Choice often comes down to nostalgia and personal taste. When asked which racing chronograph he’d pick if he could own just one, Hammerschmidt had no doubts: “The Rolex Daytona 116520 with a steel bezel and white dial. It’s the only Rolex I truly love, and in my opinion, one of the best chronographs ever made.”

Vintage vs. Modern

In recent years, brands like TAG Heuer, Richard Mille, and Chopard have released a wide variety of limited-edition motorsport watches.

TAG leans more toward racing heritage: in the last five years the brand has released its Monaco Gulf Special Edition, a tribute to the Gulf Racing team that features its iconic blue-and-orange livery, the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Special Edition celebrating the brand’s partnership with Porsche in Formula E and endurance racing, and the Formula 1 Chronograph x Red Bull Racing Special Edition, which is a tribute to the Red Bull Racing team that features a blue dial with red and yellow accents, to name a few.

Richard Mille, on the other hand, chooses to showcase cutting-edge materials and lightweight designs: the RM 50-03 McLaren F1, a tourbillon split-seconds chronograph, weighs just 38 grams, making it one of the lightest mechanical watches ever while the RM 67-02 Automatic Charles Leclerc Edition includes a skeletonized movement.

Chopard contiunes to be inspired by the elegance of vintage racing with its Mille Miglia 2022 Race Edition, featuring a vintage-inspired dial and a rubber strap with a tire-tread-pattern and the Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2024 Edition which pays tribute to the historic Monaco race and the classic Formula 1 cars that raced there.

“There’s definitely a generational divide,” said Zomborácz. “Vintage pieces connect with fans who grew up watching Hunt, Lauda, and Senna. The newer models? They resonate more with [Charles] Leclerc, [George] Russell, and [Lando] Norris fans.”

While motorsport heritage adds appeal, it’s not always the deciding factor for buyers. “It’s somewhat important but not a dealbreaker,” Hammerschmidt said.

Zomborácz agreed: “People buy racing chronographs for all sorts of reasons. Some love motorsport, some feel connected to Le Mans, and others just want a bit of Steve McQueen’s swagger. Heritage is nice, but it’s not the main reason people buy them.”

TAG Heuer’s Takeover as F1’s Official Timekeeper

One of the biggest shifts in the motorsport watch world was TAG Heuer replacing Rolex as Formula 1’s official timekeeper. “It was a smart move,” said Zomborácz. “Bernie Ecclestone once said F1’s audience used to be ‘silver-haired men wearing Rolexes.’ But today’s F1 is younger and more digital. Rolex represents a different era—TAG Heuer is a better fit for the sport’s faster, more modern image. And stepping into Rolex’s role strengthens TAG Heuer’s position as a serious motorsport brand.”

Function vs. Form

When asked which chronograph he’d recommend to a modern racer, Zomborácz—who is a competitive motorcycle racer—gave an unexpected answer: “A Casio G-Shock. It’s accurate, water-resistant, shockproof, light, and comfortable. When I hit the track, I wear a G-Shock. It’s survived every crash—I can’t say the same for everything else I’ve worn.”

As is the case with many tool watches, from chronographs to dive watches, there is always a question of style outweighing function. F1’s access to and reliance upon cutting-edge technology drives that inquiry home. Zomborácz believed style has outweighed function at this point. “But that’s not necessarily a bad thing,” he said. “People don’t buy racing chronographs to time laps anymore. They buy them to feel connected to the sport and its history.”

Automotive Partnerships

Luxury watch brands have long used automotive partnerships as a marketing tool—from TAG Heuer and Porsche to Richard Mille and Ferrari, Breitling and Bentley to Jacob & Co. and Bugatti—offering numerous collaborations all with the goal of expanding the reach of each brand.

“Consistency matters,” said Zomborácz. “Porsche and TAG Heuer have been partners for decades—that feels genuine. But when car brands constantly switch their watch partners, it starts to feel like influencer marketing. Ferrari, for example, has bounced from Cartier to Girard-Perregaux to Panerai to Hublot, and now they seem to have settled on Richard Mille. Honestly, it might soon be the watchmakers who bring the real prestige and enthusiasm to these collaborations.”

The legacy of motorsport lives on through the chronographs that have graced the wrists of racing legends. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless elegance of a Rolex Daytona, the bold heritage of Heuer, or the cutting-edge innovation of Richard Mille, these watches are more than just timepieces—they are a statement of passion and precision. Explore our curated selection of luxury chronographs and find the perfect watch to match your style and need for speed ahead of the 2025 Formula 1 season.

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