The Roundup: the “Return of the Railmaster” Edition

Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch.

Collabs, Complications, and Comebacks

We won’t bury the lead. This week, an iconic Omega model made a comeback: it’s the return of the Railmaster. The brand introduced the original Railmaster in 1957 as part of a trilogy known as the “Professional Line,” which also included the Speedmaster and Seamaster. While the latter two have continued to be core designs of Omega, the Railmaster never quite received the same level of recognition. Sure, the brand has added some revival editions over the years, but now, it takes a firm place in Omega’s catalog with two different neutral-toned gradient dials and the option of a bracelet or strap.

In addition, Vacheron Constantin continues to double down on complications with a new grand comp. The model incorporates a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator, marking the first time a minute repeater has appeared in the Overseas collection. Despite its complexity (put on full display thanks to an openface design), the design is ultra-sleek and wearable thanks to a titanium build and the Caliber 2755 QP that boasts a thickness of just 7.9mm.

Last but not least among some cool new releases is the latest watch mashup, this time between Girard-Perregaux and Bamford. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition reimagines a unique design from Girard-Perregaux’s archives featuring a cushion-shaped case and faceted bezel. The collab gets contemporary touches like a titanium construction and rubber strap. This in combination with the bold splashes of color makes this the perfect watch for summer. Run don’t walk — it’s a limited edition of just 350 pieces.

Phillips Dominates the Block

If you follow the auctions, keep a close eye on Phillips. At the recent Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, the famed house drove wild results more than doubling the pre-sale estimate. The top ten lots totaled a whopping CHF 18,630,700 (roughly $22.3 million) with three watches selling above CHF 2 million (roughly $2.3 million) and five selling above CHF 1 million (roughly $1.2 million).

Next up will be the New York Watch Auction: XII, a two-day sale on June 7 and 8 featuring 144 lots, many of which are being offered publicly for the very first time. Leading the pack is an exceptional Patek Philippe Reference 1518, which is appearing at auction for the first time in nearly four decades.

The Pearl of the Riviera: Watchspotting

Red carpet watchspotting continues at the 78^th Cannes Film Festival. Chopard has seemed to dominate the early days of the annual event, which just kicked off this past Tuesday and will run through May 24. Quentin Tarantino attended the opening festivities sporting the ultra-sophisticated Chopard L.U.C XPS in platinum, and William Abadie made his way to the “Mission Impossible — The Final Reckoning” red carpet in the highly limited L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 watch in white gold with a grand feu enamel dial. Alternatively, Tom Cruise celebrated the eighth installment of his beloved franchise in classic Rolex, a timeless Day Date 40 in white gold to be exact. Tramell Tillman caught our eye again in Jaeger-LeCoultre, this time opting for a slightly less complicated model with the Reverso Tribute Duoface Chronograph. Still, it was perhaps Jeremy Strong whose wrist candy has stolen the show so far. The actor rocked his go-to brand, Richard Mille. His model of choice — the terracotta-toned RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat perfectly matched his monochromatic all-pink ensemble.