The Roundup: the “Spooky Season” Edition
The Roundup
Each week, EWC will be gathering horological industry news, cultural conversations and moments surrounding our favorite topic: timepieces. Happy Friday; here’s what’s on our watch.
It’s officially October. Before we know it, the holidays will be here. For many (including the watch industry), this is the busiest season. Yet, this week is eerily quiet—dare I say spooky—the calm before the storm if you will. Later this month, we have our sights set on the biggest moment in the U.S. watch scene with the WatchTime and WindUp fairs both celebrating their tenth anniversaries. But for now, let’s get into some gorgeous new timepieces, the latest auction news, and the traveling exhibition you don’t want to miss.
Heavy Hitters
The headline of the week comes to us from Audemars Piguet with the newest edition of the Royal Oak. Rounding out the Maison’s 150th anniversary year, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 required five years of research and development to achieve. The result: an all-new patented movement, the Caliber 8100. The RD#5 features a rare instant jump minute counter alongside an hour counter, and for the first time in the Royal Oak collection, it combines a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon.
Alongside AP, Breitling unveiled an entirely new line of watches for female collectors. The Lady Premier is a reimagination of the brand’s 1940s Premier Fantasies models. Evolved to suit the times, the new collection offers perfectly sized modern proportions at 36mm as well as a smaller more vintage-inspired 32mm option.
New collaborative special editions also touched down this week, first with H. Moser & Cie teaming up with Formula 1 star Pierre Gasly for an exclusive limited edition version of the brand’s iconic Streamliner. The model is equal parts sporty and refined with the Maison’s unique interpretation of a luxury sport watch. Here, the oversized case and integrated bracelet are elevated in rose gold. Plus you get the option for a chocolate brown rubber strap.
Ahead of Dubai Watch Week this November, the UAE’s most influential retailer has been capturing our attention. Last month, Seddiqi opened its first flagship boutique in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, marking major regional expansion for the 75-year-old, family-owned luxury watch and jewelry business. This week, Doxa commemorated this 75th anniversary year with a special edition featuring a striking cherry red dial, Eastern Arabic numerals on the datewheel, and the engraving “Where Legacy Meets Luxury” on the caseback.
A Decade in the Making
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Next month, auction week will touch down in Geneva. Phillips has just released a sneak peek at the catalog for its Decade One (2015-2025) 10th Anniversary Auction to take place this November. Highlights include a not one, not two, but three Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518s, one in stainless steel, one in pink-on-pink gold, and one in yellow gold alongside a ‘Rainbow’ Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18059 made for the Sultanate of Oman, a first-series Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 2499 in 18k yellow gold, and the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance ‘Souscription, 2/20.’ Previews will take place around the globe, touching down in NYC later this month from October 15-17.
All Around the World
Speaking of world tours, the GPHG Traveling Exhibition has just kicked off in Shanghai
The 2025 edition presents 84 timepieces nominated by the GPHG Academy from more than 50 brands. After Shanghai, the tour will stop off in Istanbul for the first time before moving on to Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire. Finally, Dubai Watch Week will welcome the winners after the awards ceremony in November.