Why I’m Looking at an Independent Brand for My Next Big Purchase

Indies

Published by: Craig Karger

View all posts by Craig Karger
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Like most collectors, I’ve spent plenty of time chasing the classics, iconic models from the big names that built this industry. And with good reason: watches like the Royal Oak, Speedmaster, and Nautilus are foundational. They’ve earned their place in history, and there’s something reassuring about owning a piece of that legacy.

But for my next big purchase, I’m looking elsewhere. Not because the big brands have lost their appeal, but because independent watchmaking is offering something I can’t stop thinking about: bold design, true creative freedom, and pieces that feel deeply personal.

Now, as the founder of Wren, a brand that fits more into the microbrand category than the world of high-end independents, you might expect me to be naturally biased toward the little guys. And sure, the idea of supporting smaller watchmakers is inherently appealing. But honestly, my involvement with Wren hasn’t really shaped my buying decisions. What has made a lasting impression is spending years in the industry and having the chance to meet the people behind the watches, the founders, the designers, and the watchmakers themselves. That kind of access changes the way you think about what makes a watch special.

A Different Kind of Vision

One of the main reasons I’m looking toward an independent for my next major addition is the creative freedom you see in their work. When a designer isn’t tied to legacy back catalogs, shareholder expectations, or rigid market forecasts, they can take real risks, and it shows.

The Berneron Mirage is a great example. It doesn’t reference vintage hits or repurpose familiar shapes. It’s a completely fresh design, fluid, architectural, asymmetrical and incredibly self-assured. And that’s rare, especially for a debut piece. It’s the kind of watch that could quietly anchor a future legacy, precisely because it wasn’t trying to echo someone else’s.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Ref. 03.WL.B

You see the same kind of vision, albeit on a much more avant-garde level, with MB&F. Their work doesn’t feel like a product rollout; it feels like art. Each piece is a mechanical sculpture, but also deeply thoughtful. The watches are often unexpected, yes, but never random. There’s coherence beneath the creativity, and that’s what makes them so compelling.

A More Personal Connection

The other major draw for me is how personal the independent world feels. When you buy one of these watches, you’re not just buying a design, you’re often buying into a story, a relationship, a process. You might be speaking directly with the person who designed the case, tuned the movement, or assembled the final watch.

MB&F Horological Machine No. 10 "Bulldog" Titanium

That level of intimacy doesn’t just deepen your appreciation, it changes how you wear the watch. It becomes less about brand recognition and more about emotional resonance.

In my own journey with Wren, I’ve seen how much of yourself goes into every detail, albeit on a much lesser scale. So when I see that same obsessive energy in an independent brand, I can recognize it instantly. And when you meet the people behind these pieces, whether it’s the quiet confidence of Berneron or the collaborative vision of MB&F, you realize the true appeal of independent brands

What I’m Looking For

I’m not done with the big brands. Far from it. But this time, I want something different. Something that reflects where I am as a collector. I want a watch that’s not just impressive, but intentional. One that feels less like a statement and more like a conversation.

That’s why I’m looking at an independent.

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