Why White Gold is the Watch Collector’s Quiet Power Play

One of the biggest trends in the watch market in 2025 is that precious metal is back in vogue. Yellow and rose gold have returned to the much-deserved spotlight, alongside broader shifts toward dressier, smaller watches, and even precious metal sports watches. While yellow and rose gold each have their own unique allure, white gold is the ultimate power move: it delivers the reassuring heft and exclusivity of a precious metal, with the discreet, under-the-radar appeal that serious collectors crave. From bridging the gap between steel sports watches and dressier pieces, to embodying the “stealth wealth” mindset, here’s why white gold stands apart.

The Case for White Gold

While rose and yellow gold make an immediate statement on the wrist, white gold’s charm is more understated. Austin Rogers, Rehaut on Instagram, sees it as a natural progression for certain collectors, especially those coming from steel sports watches. “White gold is an obvious next step for guys who love steel. It unlocks a whole new genre of watches, specifically dressier models, without the baggage that comes with flashier metals like yellow or rose gold” he noted. To Rogers, its discreet nature makes it a more approachable choice for collectors who want precious metal without the overt showiness. At a glance, white gold can be mistaken for stainless steel, which might seem odd given its higher price. But for many enthusiasts, that’s exactly the point. They want the quality, weight, and exclusivity of a precious metal without broadcasting it to everyone in the room.

A Natural Step for Collectors

Zack Botwick, a Watch Specialist at European Watch Company, highlighted a similar phenomenon among the collectors he works with every day. Botwick described the natural graduation of collectors from stainless steel sports watch enthusiasts to white gold collectors. “They start noticing dressier, more refined watches they hadn’t considered before,” he explained. “That said, for someone rooted in sports watches, the idea of a yellow gold Calatrava can feel like too much of a leap. This is exactly where I suggest white gold. It’s the perfect transitional material.”

For many collectors, white gold serves as the perfect bridge, linking the sporty pieces of their early collecting years to the more overtly luxurious precious metal watches they might embrace as their tastes mature.

More Than Just a Transition

That said, white gold has its own merits. It not only serves as a transitional material on the road to something more luxurious. Rogers emphasized the stealth wealth quality that white gold possesses. “So-called ‘stealth wealth’ has been in vogue for a while now,” he explained.  “In times of economic uncertainty we tend to see more conservative taste win out. White gold is the perfect metal for that, allowing wearers to access higher tiers of watches while keeping things low key from a distance.” The understated nature of white gold shouldn’t be seen simply as a lack of yellow or rose gold’s flair, but as a distinctive character all its own. As Botwick put it, “Its appeal is more subtle, more personal—which is exactly what makes it special to those who appreciate it.” In essence, according to Botwick, white gold collecting makes watches a personal experience rather than purely a flashy, jewelry oriented exercise. 

For many collectors, the weight of a white gold watch is a significant part of its appeal. The heft of a precious metal piece can add a sense of substance and luxury that steel simply can’t replicate. At the same time, not every collector wants the bold, attention-grabbing look of yellow or rose gold. White gold delivers the same tactile satisfaction and presence on the wrist, but with a more understated appearance.

Botwick singled this out when comparing a Patek Nautilus 5711 (a steel piece) with the successor 5811 which is fashioned from white gold. “The difference in weight between the two isn’t just physical—it subtly influences the wearer’s perception of value and exclusivity,” he reasoned. “There’s something undeniably special about the heft and presence of a white gold piece that sets it apart, even if it looks nearly identical at a glance.”

Looking Ahead

So where is the world of white gold watches headed in the coming years? 

Rogers thinks that we are at the start of the return to precious metal, and white gold specifically.  “The watch renaissance of 2020/21 saw a ton of new interest by younger collectors. As these collectors age and their collections mature they’ll start to look for ways to introduce higher end references and precious metals,” he said. Plus, as these younger customers, once stainless steel collectors, do begin to opt for more exclusive materials, white gold might be the bridge material it so naturally works as. 

Botwick was a little more tentative about the future of the material. “Many hesitate to pay precious metal prices for something that looks more understated”, he explained. Depending on how market dynamics continue in years to come, we could see white gold go either way in his view.

Final Thoughts

Regardless, both Rogers and Botwick are big fans of white gold watches. Both singled out the GMT Master in white gold with a blue dial as an incredible white gold piece, with Botwick touting it as “the ultimate “sleeper” watch”, since few collectors can note the difference between the white gold and stainless models.

Whether you value white gold as a stepping stone toward bolder pieces, treasure the quiet satisfaction of owning something special, or simply enjoy the reassuring heft of a precious metal, it stands as the ultimate power move. Seen or unseen, it reflects a collector’s commitment to wearing what they truly love, and that’s what watch collecting is all about.