Arrivederci Bonati: Remembering the Man Who Made Panerai Iconic

As EWC’s resident Paneristi, I thought it only right to take a moment and share my thoughts on the one and only Angelo Bonati who passed away late last month.  If you’re not familiar, Bonati was nothing less than the patron saint of Panerai. He was the brand’s first employee after they were acquired by Richemont back in 1997 and spent 21 years there, 18 of them as CEO. He left his role as the head of sales at Cartier Italy to take on the challenge of transforming Panerai from the supplier of military watches it started as into the iconic brand we know today. Everything that I love about Panerai is a result of Bonati’s leadership and he is more than deserving of all of the beautiful tributes that have been written since his passing.

Panerai is one of the most divisive brands in the world of watch collecting. The large size, signature utilitarian style, and unapologetic approach means you either love it, or hate it. Bonati was quoted as saying that when he showed people the new brand’s first prototypes, their reaction would either be “That’s fantastic!” or “That’s bullshit!” You don’t meet many folks who express ambivalence for the brand, and that is what I like best about it. 

I first discovered Panerai back in 2007 when I was just starting to immerse myself in the world of watches. I didn’t have any preconceived notions of what was “good”, what it meant to have an in-house movement, who had legacy, who didn’t, etc. I was looking at brands through a purely aesthetic lens (I sometimes wish I could go back there!) and Panerai drew me in immediately. They were like nothing I’d ever seen before, which, as it turns out, was Bonati’s vision all along. He was unafraid to buck current trends and styles and to offer the world something completely different.

He was met with plenty of resistance along the way but remained undeterred. Panerai made oversized watches long before it was fashionable and was a key player in the “big watch craze” of the era. They dove deep into their catalog and produced vintage-inspired reissues long before other, far more historic manufacturers had even considered it.

Has it always been perfect? Of course not. Panerai is not without controversy and they are far from blameless. Ultimately, though, the brand makes unique and interesting pieces and they have always remained true to what Bonati wanted Panerai to be. After all, to err is human, and I’m pretty sure you’d be hard pressed to name me another brand that’s had a perfect ride anyways!

I used to call Panerai my guilty pleasure, but now I realize no guilt is necessary. A watch manufacturer doesn’t need 200 years of history or the most amazing technology to be worthy. Vision, continuity, and a gentleman like Angelo Bonati at the helm will do just fine.

Arrivederci Signore Bonati. You will be missed.