The 5 Most Underappreciated Watch Brands Right Now and Why They Deserve a Second Look

In a world where Rolex releases dominate headlines and every Patek release triggers a frenzy, it’s easy to forget there’s more to watchmaking than hype and heritage. While some brands bask in endless attention, others quietly produce extraordinary timepieces, rich in story, substance, and style, without the fanfare. To identify names deserving a second look, we turned to five trusted voices in the watch world. Their picks are proof that some of the most compelling watches come from places collectors often overlook.

Zenith – Arwind Jhand, Vintage Watch Dealer at Tortoise Watches

Zenith has long been overshadowed by louder brands, despite creating the legendary El Primero movement. Vintage watch dealer Arwind Jhand (@tortoisewatches) believes Zenith’s modest reputation comes at a cost. “There was too much grey market discounting a decade ago,” he explained. “And for a while, they just had too many models, people didn’t know where to start.” Jhand’s personal obsession started after spotting the El Primero Open Heart in an airport. “I didn’t buy it then, but it set me off,” he said. “I ended up leaving my desk job to become a full-time watch dealer because of Zenith.” His sleeper pick? The Port Royal 95.0102.418. Produced in just 200 pieces between 1984 and 1986, it features a titanium case, integrated bracelet, full calendar, and the iconic El Primero movement. “It could be my one-watch collection,I wear it more than anything else.”

Beda’a – Thor Svaboe, Independent Watch Reviewer

You’d be forgiven for never hearing about Beda’a, and according to independent watch writer Thor Svaboe (@thorsvaboe), that’s precisely its charm. Founded in 2016 by a Qatari entrepreneur and now led by designer Sohaib Magnam, Beda’a balances conceptual flair with genuine wearability. “I completely ignored the brand until an appointment at the Beau Rivage,” Svaboe admitted. “I was super impressed and now really want the Eclipse II.” This standout piece is a jump-hour regulator hybrid featuring a figure-eight layout, Aventurine accents, and a guilloché-like champagne dial. At 37mm, it wears small but bold, elongated lugs elegantly stretching across the wrist. “Quirky and haute,” said Svaboe, noting its approachable price, under $5,000, as an entry into serious design.

Raúl Pagès and Simon Brette – Mathilde Enz, Industry Insider

Industry insider Mathilde Enz (@timebymathilde) highlights two under-appreciated independent watchmakers: Raúl Pagès and Simon Brette. “They represent the best of contemporary independent watchmaking but remain under the radar,” Enz noted. Pagès creates refined, quietly complex pieces in limited numbers. His RP1 Regulator, a minimalist watch housing a technically demanding pivoted detent escapement, caught Enz’s attention: “Elegant and pure.” Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans – Souscription Edition, by contrast, embraces drama and depth with an open, sculptural movement. “The finishing is exceptional,” Enz said, citing the “mirror-polished concave screws and mesmerizing dragon-scale dial, a three-dimensional mosaic.” Both brands quietly lead the edge of modern independent watchmaking.

Molnar Fabry – David Lowinger, Watch Designer

Watch designer David Lowinger (@lowinger_watches) identifies Slovakia-based Molnar Fabry as a hidden gem. Known for transforming off-the-shelf movements into bespoke, hand-finished masterpieces, Molnar Fabry blurs the line between watchmaking and sculpture. “Their skill in customization is unparalleled,” said Lowinger, highlighting the Atlantis as a prime example. “It’s a true masterpiece,” he said, describing the watch’s Damascus steel case, black mainplate, vivid blue jewels, sharp geometric bridges, and textured stingray strap as “unlike anything else.” To Lowinger, Molnar Fabry embodies independent artistry deserving broader recognition.

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Vasu Kulkarni, Collector and Social Media Influencer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) may be technically accomplished, yet remains surprisingly underappreciated, according to collector Vasu Kulkarni, better known by his Instagram handle @nycwatchguy. “They’re not a one-trick pony,” Kukarni said. “They have over 100 years of history, incredible complications, and a wide price range, yet get no love, evident from secondary market prices.” While admitting he’s not a Reverso fan,”I don’t dress nicely enough for one”, Kulkarni deeply respects JLC’s high-end pieces. “Their skeleton minute repeaters and gyrotourbillons are incredible feats of watchmaking and engineering,” he said. JLC’s quiet consistency and horological prowess make it one of the most overlooked names today.

Looking Beyond the Obvious

Whether it’s Zenith’s hidden strengths, Beda’a’s playful edge, Molnar Fabry’s bespoke artistry, JLC’s quiet depth, or Pagès and Brette’s subtle excellence, these brands prove that in 2025, looking beyond the obvious is more rewarding than ever. The next great watch likely isn’t dominating social media, and that’s exactly why it’s worth discovering.